Restaurant reviews by Justin Tanner, our retired food critic who knew that Phillip Schofield was a wrong ‘un all along
SCOTLAND. Is there really any point?
Alright, they put up a stronger fight than the Welsh and Irish to inevitable rule by their betters, but the weather’s shit, the football’s worse and fuck the bagpipes.
Letting Scotland call itself a country is like letting your daughter be a goth: regrettable, indulgent, a bit pathetic but ultimately doesn’t do anyone any lasting harm.
But I fancy a break and I’ve heard Edinburgh’s alright, so I’ve booked a coach. Be interested to see how it’s getting on under its new Duke. Not said anything offensive yet but he’s working up to it.
Sitting down for traditional Scottish cuisine on the Royal Mile – you won’t catch me in any overpriced tourist-traps – I break the ice. ‘Who d’you support then?’ I ask the waiter. ‘Celtic or Rangers?’
Wrong city apparently. Country’s the size of Norfolk with half the people so how they can have all this sectarian divide when it’s no bigger than a boil on your arse baffles me. And Heart of Lothian’s no name for a team. What even is Lothian? Wood?
Anyway, I stretch out with a few single malts. Says a lot about life up here that the national drink is 40 per cent proof. If I asked for a wee dram of the strong stuff they’d bring heroin.
I start with cullen skink, a smoked-fish soup that sounds like a parasitic lizard that lays eggs in your scrotum. Bland, but these people consider porridge a treat.
Smoked salmon’s no improvement. Do I look like a fucking otter? Then I’m offered haggis, and being no mug I Google that shit.
Sheep’s guts? Wrapped up and boiled in the lining of its stomach? How daft do these Jocks think we are? Nobody’s eating that. It’s like when Arabs serve up sheep’s eyeballs. They’re watching from the kitchen pissing themselves.
I explain to the waiter that he might hate the English as much as we hate the French, but I’d rather he flip his kilt, add a sprig of thistle and serve up his bare arse than haggis. Knowing I’ve rumbled him, he suggests the grouse.
It comes with tatties – potatoes – and neeps, which are turnips. Call them what you like, nobody’s eating turnips and the grouse doesn’t have enough meat on it to feed a cat. So potatoes basically. No wonder all the natives prefer to be homeless in London.
Refusing another snifter, which I take as acknowledgment you have to be pissed to eat this crap, I lurch out. I don’t tip either. They’re tight up here so they’d be offended.