The bastard offspring of Grease and a horny GI: The gammon food critic hits the 1950s all-American diner

Restaurant reviews by Justin Tanner, our retired food critic who’s now ready to admit that fair enough, Boris took the piss

WHY so many right-winger are Yankophiles I’ll never know. A brash, cultureless mess of a country whose national pastimes are shooting schoolkids and police beatings. 

They came over here for World War Two, years fucking late, took all the credit, took our grandmothers for tea dances and got their knobs out. Farage disappointed me for ignoring all that because he wants a shooter.

And they pompously imagine they invented fast food. The sandwich dates back to 1762, numbnuts. Long before your so-called Declaration of Independence. But I don’t mind 50s music – anything up to and including 1980 is fine with me, I’m not closed-minded – and I’m more than partial to a burger.

‘Don’t shoot! I’m neither black nor a schoolkid!’ I quip on entering, only to discover the staff are unarmed and British. Good. I couldn’t have sat through an evening of nasal Californian drawl.

Decor? Polished chrome, red leather, a non-functioning jukebox no matter how many times you kick it. Musically it’s all Elvis, from that floundering period before we took them in hand and showed them how to make pop records. Doo-Wop? Bollocks.

Then the coronary arrived at the table. Burgers stacked with bacon, Monterrey Jack cheese, chilli, gherkins etcetera until you need the hinged mandibles of a fucking snake to bite the bastard. No wonder Elvis shat himself to death.

I get through it – doesn’t taste of much – and wash it down with a root beer. Not a milkshake because they cost six fucking quid and ‘malted’ isn’t a flavour.

For dessert I go for the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Avalanche, named after that movie about the gay cowboys. A good film that didn’t need the gayness. Anyway, it’s like when kids make cakes: rice krispies, peanut butter, fudge, chocolate sauce and fucking disgusting.

I get up to leave, table covered in sticky shite, and reflect that Americans might speak English but they’re still foreigners who collapse at Disney World, aged 32, morbidly obese, suffering fatal cardiac arrests in the queue for Dumpster O’Smores.

Lasting impression? As far removed from fine dining as Scunthorpe United are from Superbowl LXV. But unlike the real USA I left without a gunshot wound.

Let's move to the home of prisons, witch trials and commuters! This week: Chelmsford

What’s it about? 

Described by Charles Dickens in 1835 as ‘the dullest and most stupid place on earth’, Chelmsford hasn’t changed much.

The population bases its self-worth on being slightly more genteel than nearby towns Billericay and Wickford, who in turn believe themselves more refined than the inhabitants of Chelmsford’s category B prison and young offenders’ institute, a convenient drive in a police van from Basildon, Southend and Grays.

The town boasts that it is ‘the birthplace of radio’ where Guglielmo Marconi opened the world’s first wireless factory. This took place in 1899. There have been no brag-worthy achievements since.

Any good points? 

A cathedral, a railway viaduct in a park, Henry VIII built a palace here for Anne Boelyn but there’s bugger all left. For that matter the Romans built here and there’s bugger all left. Most of what Marconi built’s knackered too.

The Riverside Leisure Centre, with swimming pool and ice rink, has kept generations of adolescents busy and so constitutes the main method for lowering the youth offending and pregnancy rate. Pete’s Airgun Farm, with an indoor and outdoor range, offers pistol shooting at 30 and 50 yards. Unsurprisingly many residents demonstrate a real aptitude for this theraputic pastime.

The ususually wide high street is a blessing to local teenagers, allowing several different gangs to lurk menacingly at the same time.

Beautiful landscape? 

Hylands House, a neo-Classical grade II listed villa, plays host to the more expensive end of chavvy weddings and is surrounded by 574 acres of attractive parkland. Alternatively the Hyde Hall public gardens boast a crowd-pulling exhibition of vegetables from around the world.

The River Chelmer flows through the city and is home to several varieties of fish, providing a convenient cover story for the town’s smell. Take a cruise along the picturesque waterways of Maldon and Heybridge Basin or take some time out to go fishing at Paper Mill Lock, observing the pondlife.

Hang out at… 

The Guardian once described Chelmsford as a ‘cultural black hole’, which is deeply unfair as there is an Odeon. It’s opposite the roundabout with the ruins of a Roman temple buried beneath it.

The 500-year-old Saracen’s Head was, in 2020, transformed into Peaky Blinders-themed bar The Garrison in response to no public demand for that whatsoever. Though the 1920s theme does explain the state of the toilets.

The Voodoo Keller Bar also leans on gimmickry to be interesting. Based in the old holding cells of the magistrates court, it forces numerous young men on the pull to pretend that this is their first time drunk behind bars.

Residents still mourn The Army and Navy pub which in its glory days hosted Oasis, Ash and Elastica. A local church tried to save it in 2006 with the condition that no alcohol be served, astonishingly not a hit with the punters. A Travelodge now occupies the hallowed ground where generations of young men first attempted fingering.

In 1645, Witchfinder-General Matthew Hopkins tried twenty-three Chelmsford women for witchcraft. If he were able to now visit Popworld and Bassment at closing time, the demonic shrieking, exposed body parts, grotesque painted faces and warts would see him triple that easily.

Where to buy… 

Located just 30 miles from Charing Cross, homebuyers come to Chelmsford for proximity to London. Such new arrivials of the city are known officially as ‘Chelmsfordians’ and unofficially as ‘commuter wankers’.

If you can afford it, expensive homes in Great Baddow and Broomfield are in the catchment for Chelmsford’s heavily oversubscribed grammar schools, a must for social-climber twats with social consciences.

Alternatively, less pricey houses are available near the mixed comprehensive Sandon, a must for anyone hoping their child gets only eight to ten years with a strong likelihood of probation.

From the streets: 

Jack Browne, aged 18: “I reckon Marconi invented radio in the hope of contacting intelligent life outside of Chelmsford.”