Restaurant reviews by Justin Tanner, our retired food critic who thinks that Jeremy Corbyn would have had us sending tanks to his mate Putin
GREECE? Philosphers in robes, few fancy gods, completely fucked their economy joining the EU. Notice there’s nothing about food in there, do you?
That’s because, with a largely goats-on-rocks-based agriculture, it’s vile. But I’m off to Corfu on an over-50s holiday in May, and as a renowned food critic I need to know my tzatziki from my taramasalata.
First surprise? No doner kebabs on the menu. I raise this with the waiter, who curtly informs me they’re Turkish, not Greek. Like there’s any difference, I tell him, but apparently they’re not exactly mates. It’s a good start. I like a country that’s not afraid to hate its neighbours.
The starters, or mezze as they call them, all sound hideous. Olives? Like teabagging the devil’s testicles. Then taramasalata, pureed fish eggs dyed a lurid and unappealing shade of pink. They’re taking the piss.
Rice wrapped in vine leaves? Courgette balls? What, Plato couldn’t take a moment out of contemplating to say “this tastes like shit, Demitrious? And don’t even think of frying that bloody octopus”?
I go for the Greek-style fish-and-chips. Why bugger about? Except they have. The cod’s stiff and salty, the chips are as mean and thin as McDonald’s, and it’s being served with this dip called skordalia which is mashed potato with an industrial quantity of garlic.
Garlic. Fucking garlic. With fish and chips. If they haven’t got the basic intelligence to know fish and chips means ketchup it’s no wonder they’re the sick man of Europe.
Smashing my plate on the floor in the traditional manner, I order another bottle of Mythos beer, only to be roundly bollocked by an angry moustachioed man who says the Greeks don’t smash plates. Who is he kidding?
My explanation that it’s the only thing anyone knows about his crappy country falls on deaf ears. I show him how it’s done with the side plates and he gets menacing, but as I tell him it takes more than knocking back six bottles of olive oil a day to be the Mafia.
Long story short, I’m not going there again. You try and embrace these people’s primitive cultures and they throw it back in your fucking face. I’m cancelling that holiday.