Fearful steps in the land of the ladyboy: The gammon food critic's Thai taste experience

Restaurant reviews by Justin Tanner, our retired food critic who knows for a fact Starmer’s only going after the farmers so he can repossess their land to build luxury houses for migrants.

NEVER fancied Thailand. Too hot, scary wildlife that can kill you with a single poisonous bite, and most of the women are packing cocks. 

Ladyboys, they call them. Blokes tarted up to the nines thinking they’re women. Unfortunately there’s plenty of that in good old Blighty these days, except ours are usually munters. Still, no coincidence the capital’s called Bangkok, if you ask me.

And people do bang on about how good the food is. There’s a restaurant nearby that claims to serve the best Thai food in Birmingham, so I thought why not? It’s probably like Chinese. They look pretty similar.

However I’ve been warned about a big cultural taboo. Never point your shoe or foot at another person. Feet are an unclean part of the body apparently. Are they too primitive for showers? I’m guessing you have to walk in sideways like a bloody crab to avoid offending them. And you thought modern Britain was full of snowflakey bollocks.

Having safely negotiated my way to a table without insulting anyone with my feet, I peruse the menu.

There’s pad thai, or stir-fried noodles with vegetables and roasted peanuts. Giving that a miss. If I wanted peanuts with noodles I’d open a bag of KP and sprinkle them over a pot of Pot Noodle chicken and mushroom.

Then there’s tom yum, a clear soup with galangal – which is just a posh name for ginger – and lemon grass. A bowl of spicy water with twigs in it, then.

Running out of options, I order the laab, a spicy, salty salad with fish sauce. I’m morbidly fascinated as to how exactly you make a sauce out of fish, but decide not to ask. Some things you’re better off not knowing. It’s hot as f**k and comes with raw vegetables. Must remember to look up the recipe, because it sounds like a perfect cure for my constipation. 

Green Thai curry I’m familiar with. Tesco do it. But there’s no point ordering something I can pick up in the chiller aisle whenever I feel like it. So I go for ‘pad kra pao moo’, which from the name you’d assume is beef, but turns out it’s minced pork stir-fried with Thai basil, green beans and garlic and shit. Topped with, of all things, a fried egg. It’s passable, to be fair, with plenty of plain white rice to smother the taste of the spices. But it’s no chicken tikka masala.

I finish with ‘Thailand’s most popular dessert’, mango sticky rice. Basically, rice cooked in coconut milk topped with sliced raw mango. Fruit and rice. I ask you. That’s the trouble when you let foreigners come up with their own cuisine. During the British Empire we had cakes, which take a bit of effort.

Finally it’s duty done. Would I come again? Unlikely. And I’ve still got to work out how the f**k I’m meant to get out of the door without my toes giving anyone a funny look.

This week in Mash History: William Caxton invents celebrity autobiographies, 1476

THE father of English printing, William Caxton brought the first printing press to our shores and was instrumental in coining the phrase ‘that f**king printer’s f**king broken again’.

But it has recently come to light that his aim in doing so was not to enlighten masses with translations of The Iliad, but to bring the great gift of the celebrity memoir to Britons hungry for scandal.

A letter from Caxton to old friend Margaret of York, back in his former home of Bruges, said: “My dear Duchess, you would not believe the success ye booke enjoys. It is as if merely having one on a shelf makes one look intelligent and cultured.

“But while my press roars with The Canterbury Tales and Aesop’s Fables, I feel its true destiny is to publish the real, unexpurgated tales of those known to everyone but in their own words.

“I once again implore you to think upon my offer of publishing your life story. I understand you fear it uninteresting, but I have an intuition that its mundanity will only make it sell more, especially around Christmastime.

“There is of course the illiteracy problem. But just as the ancient monk’s manuscripts were illuminated with Biblical illustration, so do I apprehend these tomes containing images of the writer themselves, perhaps of their previous tonsures or abdominal muscles.

“As you are a busy woman, there is no need for you personally to set quill to vellum. A scribe could be tasked with producing a manuscript which you then simply claim to be your own.

“I even predict they would not need to be read as such, but merely gifted to others, kept in the garderobe for a discreet time and then passed on. My only concern is printing the name in gold leaf on ye cover, which I feel to be paramount.”

Sadly Margaret never did compose her memoir, nor did Caxton’s account of being ‘ye shagger of Bruges’ ever see print. But his ideas allowed Margery Kempe to publish her very own tell-all of her sexual temptations, which proved a Q4 hit.

Next week: to Easter Island circa 1250, when an anonymous stonemason began to craft souvenirs ‘to encourage the tourist trade’.